Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

I loved this book, slow start, but pure magic after that.

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan No better way to be reminded there is a big difference between someone that surfs for fun and someone who is a surfer. Surfing parts aside, this book taught me to appreciate the different parts of your life around your 'obsession' as you get older.

Fantastic book. After I finished it, I was thinking- OK, how can I now best devote the rest of my life to surfing?

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life — William Finnegan — (2015)